ÉÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ» º º º T H E S P O O K F I L E S º º º º VOLUME ONE º º º ÈÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍͼ Let's face it, folks, the world is going to hell in a hand basket and we're all being fucked over by the fascist regimes that we live in. The government, school, work, whatever...they're all out to get us and make our life miserable. They expect us to be robots, soldiers. They want us to follow orders, obey their commands, do what we're told. Bend over and get fucked and LIKE IT! We're being savaged by a twisted society that is full of assholes who think they know what's best for us. Well I say FUCK THEM! I decide what I want out of life! I decide what's best for me! Not some lame-fuck loser in a suit with a bad haircut and a phoney smile. This handbook is for those of you who want to prepare for the day when you must strike back against the assassins of our freedoms and civil rights. If they think they're going to have an easy time fucking us over, I got news for them. As a member of the grassy knoll marksman's society (only three members) and as a rogue agent of the secret government and a 20th level archmage of the Illuminati, I know whereof I speak. This book is for you. It was written by those who believe in the importance of knowing how to fight tyranny. In this manual, you will know many useful things related to being a Secret Agent of Anarchy. Copy it freely, but be careful of who sees it. They're watching. -The Spook- ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ This file is separated into sections: Funding techniques, Anarchy, Phreaking, Drugs. Since everyone has a different way of printing out files, I have added ANSI bars to seperate the articles. You should place a hard page break where the double bars are. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³ F U N D I N G T E C H N I Q U E S ³ ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ Before you begin your career, you're going to need money. Here are some tips on how to get some if you don't already have it. DISCLAIMER: I'd like to remind everyone that this in no way suggests that I use these techniques. This is just information I've obtained and am passing on. I'm already rich from my covert activities, so these funding techniques are for emergencies only. Important note: If you get busted, the penalty is stiff so if you want to enter the realm of fraud, do it knowing you're on your own. -The Spook- ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ S O D A M A C H I N E R I P - O F F Here is a way to rip off the coke machines you see out side of stores and other places! Okay, first--on all vending machines there are always those round almost unpickable locks when no one is looking take a piece of air hardening clay (make sure it is only air hardening!) and press it into the lock real good! Then remove the clay carefully and put it somewhere to dry! Make sure the clay is TOTALLY dry then go back in a day or so and you will have a key to fit that lock put the key in and push and turn and presto the machine will open allowing you to take all the money! A good machine will get you between 2100 and 300 dollars depending when it was last checked by the company. Best of all if someone sees you just put the key on the ground and step on it and its powder! And then you cant be busted because the evidence is blown away! So that's it and if anyone has any good schemes, write a file on them and add to the Mystery Note collection. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ C O I N M A C H I N E F R A U D I Here's the equipment that you need access to in a fairly secluded area: 1) A copy machine that is of fairly good quality. 2) A change machine that changes 1's and 5's to quarters. 3) A 1 or 5 dollar bill 4) A table paper cutter that cuts paper exactly straight. 5) A lot of courage! OK what you do is walk into the place and copy the face side of your dollar. Put the dollar bill face down and in the exact middle of the machine's window. The first time you do this, only make one copy, because it might not work correctly. When you get your copied dollar bill from the machine, check the toner and make sure that it is just like the original. If its too dark or too light, then adjust the copy machine accordingly. When you get a perfectly contrasted dollar, take it over to the paper cutter and put the original dollar over the paper dollar and slice the dollar out of the big piece of paper. Now for the fun part. Make sure that there are no hidden cameras in the room watching you, or you'll be caught for sure! Walk up to the change machine and casually slide the dollar bill into the machine and push the carriage or whatever in. If the dollar comes back out then take it, rip it in half and put it in your pocket. Throw it away someplace else. But if the jingling joy of quarters comes, you will be in the money! But when you do it, do it in mass amounts, because if you do one a day, they'll probably post a guard in there or something. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ C O I N M A C H I N E F R A U D I I Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports, laundromats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you. 1) Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide the tray in! 2) After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling it up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly surface. 3) Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure). 4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out to the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is: when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine. When it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill back, plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money! !--------------------------------! ! ! ! (1) /-------\ (1) ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Pic. ! ! ! (1) /\ \-------/ (1) ! ! !! ! !-----/ \-----------------------! \-------Make notch here. About 1/2 " down from (1) ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ C R E D I T C A R D F R A U D [1] Finding a Credit Card Number. The easiest way to get Credit Card Numbers is to go to a trash bin of a place that uses Credit Card Numbers. If the place doesn't bother burning the papers, you can usually find hundreds and hundreds of Numbers on a good day. If you work in a Gas station, you can get millions of the things a day. If you want to nail some guy you know, and you can break into his car. Most people will save their Credit Card Numbers and its registration right in the glove compartment for records about their gas. Just break into the car, grab one of those papers, and voila! A few warnings, many banks now have cameras set up to watch the trash bins. You can either spray the camera with spray paint or cover it with a sheet, but then just quickly grab some and run. You never know if the cop will be watching that camera. Remember, the best way to go Credit Card Number looking is to get with a friend who is in a car, watching for other people.. Also, it is best to go late at night, the later the better, the guards are usually so stupid that they won't even bother watching. Most people that I know don't even bother with banks trash-bins though. The only time it's good to do that is if you're also trashing for hacking info. If you just need some Credit Card Numbers then just find some good place that uses Credit Card's and trash it.. There are other ways such as credit bureau's that you can get credit card numbers as well as telephone numbers, and lots of other fun information. However, as a whole, stay away from credit bureau's like CBI and especially TRW. TRW has gotten extremely dangerous. If you enter a false password, the the call is immediately traced. If you decide to use credit bureaus that fine, but as whole, there is no real need to. just go trashing for new Credit Card numbers, and you real won't have anything to worry about. If you trash a place in which the customers are rich, you usually won't have to worry about the card being valid. A note--> Visa and Mastercard have changed over to a new type of carbon. In other words when you tear the copies , the number on the carbons gets split in half. (Thanks Bomb Jack). There are still ways around this. Have a friend of yours that works in one of these places just write down the numbers. A friend of mine works in a place where they take all the Credit Card carbons, chuck them in one barrel. he then takes them out to the trash.. (or does he??) Well, that just about covers methods of how to get Credit Card Numbers. if you would like to try your luck with credit bureau's then read the file, TRW information or other files which have to do with credit bureaus. I am not going to go into detail about them. [2] Explanation of Credit Card Numbers You've got this garbage, but you don't know exactly what kind of card it is or anything else. Well, to find out what kind of card it is here is a brief summary of the number of digits and the information you need to know to use the Credit Card's properly. Mastercard Digits-16 Expiration date-look for something like 4/85 Usually has an Interbank number that is 4 digits long Name of person Visa Digits-13 Expiration date - same form as above Name of person Visa Gold Same as normal Visa but have 16 digits American Express Digits-15 Expiration date - these have beginning and ending expiration dates that you have to know like- 10/83-7/85 Name of person American Express Gold Digits-20 Expiration date - same as normal Name Note-These cards have a 5000 dollars in them at least so look for them American Express Platinum Digits-? Expiration date - same ??? Has a 1,000,000 dollar limit i think. Many times people will post numbers that will "check" the credit card for the amount of money that you type in. However, there are many problems with this. The major one is that when you call the number and type in that amount, it is subtracted from the card. In other words, if you have a card that has 500 $ in it and you "check" it for 300 dollars and then try to use the card, there will only be 200 dollars in the account so it won't work. Now another idea that has been suggested is to have just a small amount entered, just to check to see if the card is valid. This will work, but make sure you enter something like 50$, since validation of cards is not done usually on orders that are under 50 dollars. Here are some of the "voice validation numbers that I am talking about. 1-800-842-1250.. Another one is 1-800-228-1111, when you get a carrier, do #+5317007000220959+card number + the expiration date + the amount of the purchase. The recording will tell you if it is valid or not. However, there shouldn't even be a need to check on them. As long as you get them from a somewhat rich place, and don't use it for anything extravagant (A black Porsche, for instance), you shouldn't have anything to worry about. [3] Uses Ok, the part everybody's been waiting for. You have that stupid number in your hand but how do you use it? There are many ways to use the numbers and I'll go through as many as I can right here. An important thing to remember is - Never use a Credit Card Number more that once. You can use the same Credit Card at the same time, but don't use a Credit Card Number one month and then try to use it again the next. The best time to use a Credit Card Numbers is at the end of the month when the bills arrive. That means you have an entire month to use the card. OK, now for the uses. There are two kinds of uses that you can u use a Credit Card for. Number one is "for yourself". You can use the Credit Card to add to your computer, your home, or whatever else you want to add to. The other type of use is revenge. You can use the Credit Card either to get back at the person who owns the Credit Card, or get back at other people which will be explained further into the tutorial. Mail order catalogs - Places that say that they will accept Credit Card Number orders are great places to order from. However, a quick inside tutorial is needed here. She is going to ask you for your phone number to check you out. There are two ways to get around this. Number 1 is to call from a pay phone in your town and wait until she calls back. Wait about 15 minutes, if she doesn't call back by then, she's not calling back. A note.. 50% of the time the lady will give the number to shipping to validate. The guy will then call you the next day. If you want to get around this tell the lady that you are calling from out of state and won't be at this number tomorrow. She'll probably fall for it. An extremely good way of using a pay phone is to get the phone number of the Credit Card owner forwarded to the phone booth. This can be a little difficult for the beginner Credit Carder, though. The second way is to find a good loop in your state and call the other end and give her the first end. This is the best way there is. Remember though, if you tell her that you live in Connecticut, but the loop you give her is in Pennsylvania, and she notices, you will be in trouble. Continuing on this thought, you need an address to which to send your new found goods. There are many different places to have the goods shipped to. Remember, don't send it to your house!! Not very intelligent. Because you're not going to send it to your house you must use a drop zone. A drop zone is a house that's near one of your friend's house or your house. The perfect drop zone has nobody living in it, and is currently waiting for a buyer. Another perfect drop zone is a neighbor who's going away to some place like England for a 3 month vacation. The only problem with that is that the person might have their mail held at the post office. However, U.P.S., which packages are sent through, often doesn't listen, and just sends the sucker anyway. If you want to Credit Card and you can't find a good drop zone, don't send it to a friend's house, just send it to an old ladies home, who's too lazy to go out and get her mail. Just swing by the house every day and check and see if the package arrived. Okay, so you have your drop zone, you have a phone number to give the "nice" lady, so now's the big moment. Give the place a call. Be sure to sound as cool and collected as possible. If you hesitate a lot and worry, the lady will become suspicious. Sound a little bit annoyed at the lady, like you have better things to do, but be polite. Then just order what you want, she will ask for the name of the person, his Credit Card Number, his expiration date, and all the other stuff I listed above. Don't be stupid and hesitate on the guys name. It does not assure the lady that you are really John Fredrickson or whoever. Remember, be cautious with what you buy. It is possible to get hard drives, but they usually will check you out more. If you want to get a joystick, but say, "what the hell, I might as well go for a hard drive too..", buy the hard drive with one card Number, and the joystick with another. That way, you'll at least get the joystick. Computer Shows - A lot of Computer shows have telephone lines set up so they can demonstrate their modems. What you do then is to walk around until you find one of these places and say. "Excuse me, a friend of mine wants me to get me a 9600 baud modem and a joysticks (more about the joystick later), but he can't get down to the show. Can he call you and give you his credit card number. You can then call him back and check him out" It usually takes a while to find a sucker that will do this but when you do. Have one of your friends call the number while you stand and talk with the guy. Chat it up with this guy. When he asks for the number, give him the number of the pay phone. Your friend will then be called back upon which he will reply "Yep, I ordered it." Voila! You now have a 9600 baud modem and two joysticks. Important things to consider about this last method, if you do get caught. Now I will explain why to get two joysticks, it doesn't have to be two joysticks, it can be two microchips, it doesn't matter. If you do get caught (it's never happened to anyone I know, but this is a pre-caution), tell the cops that you were doing this since this guy told you that he would give each of you a joystick with his credit card number if you would go in. Say that he had no cash and couldn't get into the show, and he left his credit card at home or something. Remember, creativity in this situation may save the cat, not kill it. Then, lead the cops outside and show them where you were supposed to meet this guy and give it to him. He, obviously, won't be there so you say, "Shit, he must have seen me with you and ran! I didn't know I was doing anything wrong, he just wanted to get this modem really badly but didn't have his credit card with him or any cash" Act really stupid, because this really is a lame excuse. If you find a really stupid looking salesmen, especially the foreign ones (they wouldn't believe that anything like this would ever happen) this method will work extremely well. Destroying a person's credit - This is by far the easiest revenge method of credit carding. Just call up one of those "voice validation" or "credit card validation" numbers and type in the Credit Card Number of a person that you hate, and then keep typing in high amounts of money until all the money in his account has disappeared. Then when he goes to buy something, all the money on his Credit Card will have suddenly disappeared. [4] Advanced Credit Carding Ok, you've come this far. "What's next?" you ask. Well, the more advanced thing to do and the best thing to do if you are successful is to get a real plastic Credit card. If you steal one, go wild with it the first day, since the person will probably call in and report the card missing after a while. Make sure you have a copy of the person's signature, a fake id, under his name, or anything else useful. If your signature looks totally different than the signature of the person, you will get nailed. Things to remember: Don't get caught!! Act older than you probably are. The older you are, the better chance of success you will have. Again, act casual about it. Biting your fingernails is not a good sign of a good customer. Another thing to do is to stay away from big places. I do know of people, (not personally, A friend of mine works there and at least 4 people have been caught for doing this). Visit small stores and small places. Sometimes you can take the stuff back and return it for money. Don't use the Credit Cards at banks for cash unless you want to get caught. Another great advanced method is to get your own fake Credit Card card. These are the best. Have the card shipped to a drop zone or house, and once you get it, go wild. Use it at all the places which don't check out your credit rating (there are a few stupid places that don't). You can also get fake Mervyn's cards, Sears card, or any other type of money card if you work at it. Just be careful. Merchants are supposed to detain illegal Credit Carders by peaceful methods. But if a person is using a fake credit card, they're not going just say, "Please come with me, unless you don't want to." If you're in a small store, make a run for it. If you're in a big store, and the clerk informs you that the card is invalid (If he thinks the signature isn't right, he won't tell you, but if he watch to see if he calls security) then just act huffy, grab your fake card angrily, and walk out of the store in a huff. ADDITIONAL CARDING ADVICE Try not to fuck with well known computer companies. They're the ones who have been around the block. Go for some unknown computer company that might have a mailer at your local computer swapmeet. Secondly, make your order as realistic as hell when you call. Ask about the quality of what you are ordering, the value, when your package will come, total price...tax, everything that comes in mind. Have your info ready off the bat, if you stall, they won't take you seriously and you'll never get your order. Like when they ask for your name, don't go "uuhh...uhh...oh, Mark Lamedick" you have to know everything straight and simple. Then tell Shipping that you are currently moving right now, and you most likely wont be home in the afternoons - mornings - early evenings. Last but not least, you's better have your ass a good ass drop off point. What works best is when someone is on vacation or an abandoned house. Write a note on the door that says something like: "Dear UPS, I'm currently moving right now, and I probably won't be home in the afternoons for quite some time. I will be home in the evenings probably after 7 pm. Could you please leave the package on the doorstep, and I will pick it up when I come home, or could you stop by after 7pm (They wont cause they never deliver after 6) Thank you very much. Jane Cockhound... Okay...now go that evening...hound the place every fucking day during the 7 - 10 working days that the package is supposed to come. Get the package, and do with it what you want. Only order in large bulk around Christmas time (like ordering four 200 dollar Walkmans) Any other times, just make a bunch of small orders. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ A U T O M A T I C T E L L E R F R A U D Automatic Teller Fraud is not a particularly easy scam to pull off, as it requires either advanced hacking techniques (TRW or banks) or serious balls (trashing a private residence or outright breaking and entering), but it can be well worth your while to the tune of $500 (five hundred) a day. Laws that will be broken: Credit Fraud, Wire Fraud, Bank Fraud, Mail Fraud, Theft Over $200, Forgery, and possibly a few others in the course of setting the scheme up. The first step is to target your victim. The type person you are looking for is rich. Very rich. Now, don't go trying to hit on J.P. Getty or Johnny Carson or someone who carries a high name recognition. This will just get you into trouble as everyone notices a famous person's name floating across their desk. Instead look for someone who owns a chain of hog feed stores or something discreet like that. For example, target a gentleman who is quite active in the silver market, owning several mines in South Africa. Not wanting this to be widely known, he will avoid publicity. Next step, take out a P.O. box in this person's name. Now comes the fun part, requiring some recon on your part. You need to know some fairly serious details about this person's bank dealings. 1) Find out what bank he deals with mainly. This isn't too difficult as a quick run through his office trash will usually let you find deposit carbons, withdrawal receipts, or *anything* that has the bank name on it. 2) Find out the account number(s) that he has at the bank. This can usually be found on the above-mentioned receipts. If not, you can get them in TRW (easier said than done) or you can con them out of a hassled bank teller over the phone (Use your imagination. Talk slowly and understandingly and give plausible excuses ["I work for his car dealership, we need to do a transfer into his account"].) 2a) [optional] If you can, find out if he has an ATM (Automatic Teller) card. You don't need to know numbers or anything, just if a card exists. This can also be ascertained over the phone if you cajole properly. 3) Armed with this information, go into action. a) Obtain some nice (ivory quality) stationary. It doesn't have to be engraved or anything, but a $5 or $10 investment to put a letterhead with his initials or something on it couldn't hurt. But the most important thing is that it look good. b) Type a nice letter to the bank notifying them of your address change. Some banks have forms you have to fill out for that sort of thing, so you need to check with the bank first (anonymously, of course). You will have to have a good copy of his signature on hand to sign all forms and letters (again, trash his office). c) Call the bank to verify the new address. d) IMMEDIATELY upon verifying the change of address, send a second letter. If he already has an ATM card, request a second card with the business name engraved in it be sent for company use. If he doesn't have an ATM card, the letter should request one for account number xxxxxx. Ask for two cards, one with the wife's name, to add authenticity. e) Go to the bank and ask for a list of all ATM's on the bank's network. Often the state has laws requiring *all* machines take *all* cards, so you'll probably be in good shape. f) Await the arrival of your new card. The PIN (personal identification number) is included when they send out a card. After picking up the card, forget that you ever even *knew* where the p.o. box was, and make sure you didn't leave fingerprints. g) Begin making the maximum daily withdrawal on the card (in most cases $500/day), using a different machine each time. Since many of these machines have cameras on them, wear a hat and jacket, or a ski mask to be really paranoid. To cut the number of trips you have to make in half, be at an ATM a few minutes before midnight. Make one $500 withdrawal right before midnight, and another one right after. This cuts down on the number of trips, but police or bank officials may spot the pattern and start watching machines around midnight. Use your own judgement. Conclusion: Before using the card, make sure that all fingerprints are wiped from it. Usually the first hint you will have that they have caught on to your scam is that the machine will keep the card. Also, avoid using machines in your own town unless it is a big city (Chicago, Milwaukee, Dallas, etc...). ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ F A K E I D S The object of this article is to teach one to change his or her current driver's license to make one 21, without taking apart the drivers license itself. This will be taught to you in a quick, inexpensive, easy to understand process. The materials used are laminated sheets (easily obtainable from a school supply store for around a dollar to two dollars for a number of sheets), pair of good scissors, and a copy machine. The first step in the process calls for the copy machine (a copy machine at the supermarket works good). Make two copies of your drivers license. Take one copy and search for a digit on one of the copies that will change the current year on your license to one that will change your age (21). Once you have found the digit on one copy cut it out so just the digit is there (a square segment with a little trim around the edges is a good cut). Then take the other copy and cut out the current last digit of the year you were born in basically the same shape as the last. Put the cut out digit under the copy that you had cut out your current digit of the year you were born. Now having a little trim around the cut out digit from the first copy will assist you when lining it up under the second copy when you put it in the copy machine. Now that you have the new digit from the first copy sitting underneath but showing on the second copy place it in the copy machine and make a copy so that you will have an original of the new base part of the license. Now since most copy machines are black and white you will have to cut away the states license on the top of the license (e.g. Illinois License). Now place the new base of the license with the cut away license name over the old base of the current license. The new base might not match up like it should but line it up as a good as possible. Now place a piece of the laminated sheet cut out to configure the license on top of the new base. Cut away any overlaps of laminated paper and iron over the license with Mom's good old iron. Notes: This process has been proved to work. If you are the type of person that looks very young then do not bother to make an ID. You will just get caught and get into a lot of trouble. Also, be very careful at well known bars and over 21 hang out spots. The employees at these places tend to flash a flash light underneath the card to see if it is transparent. It is supposed to be. With this process it is a little hard to see through the ID so be careful with it if you do go to a place such as this. If you are pulled over by the police then take a corner of the license and rip. It will not affect your original license though it maybe a little sticky but, that should not be to big of a problem. If any bubbling occurs just iron over it and let it sit for a while. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³ A N A R C H Y ³ ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ Anarchy is freedom. Unfortunatly, freedom doesn't really exist these days so it's necessary to fight for it. Anarchy becomes the art of fighting for rights, for justice, for a cause. It must be done well or you will be captured and killed by the enemy, so be careful. Some of these articles are written by people with different views than mine, but they offer expertise that is important to your survival. I do not endorse attacking innocent citizens. They must be educated and brought over to the cause. But you may have your own agenda. Choose your path. Just remember, karma exists. -The Spook- ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ T E R R O R I S M Written by: Jonin Meka of The Black Hand Society Section One: The Essence of Terrorism Welcome! In the following text I will attempt to explain to you the way of Anarchy and how to be an Anarchist. One major section of Anarchy is terrorism. Terrorism is to me the best thing ever to grace man's path. Personally I love terrorism because, well, I really hate strangers. Sometimes I'll decide to blow someone's car or house or even the person all together just because they don't look right. Terrorism defined as "mass-organized ruthlessness" and a terrorist is defined as "one who rules by terror." Both of these descriptions are fairly accurate but to me terrorism is the hatred of all good, organization, love, and anything liked by normal morons who live in our disgusting society we all call free! Therefore terrorism is the destruction of society. I love that! To be a terrorist you must have this attitude! Don't read any farther unless you are a terrorist. Well, now the we all have the understanding of terrorism we can begin. Note: you don't have to kill to be a terrorist. Just be sure you love love to cause terror! Section Two: Simple Terrorism Before I write anymore I must tell you I'm writing this article because I wish to spread terroristic ideals. Also I wish to tell you that Black Hand Society rules. Well, on with it. The following are some of my own little goodies that I like to do once in a while. This article does not explain how to make destruction devices or any of that kind of stuff. That will be covered by others. And finally one more thing; I find experimentation is best when trying to terrorize someone or something. Here we go! [1] SHOPLIFTING Ahhh...my favorite. Here is the best and most economical way to obtain anything you desire: Shoplifting! One note: this is highly dangerous in these days of hidden cameras and microphones so be very careful and if all else fails and you're caught but some stupid moron of a "store-detective" just be sure to keep a cube of "potassium chloride plastic explosives" with so you can light it while the moron has you by the arm and is taking you wherever it is they take you when your caught. Well on to some safety clauses. For one always be silent while shoplifting as of the microphones (if any). Next always look for two-way mirrors, black spots on any store walls, and most of all people who stay in a store for more than an hour- They're Narcs ! And now for some advanced techniques. One I find to be fun is to stuff my jacket then go up to the register and then buy something small ! That really confuses the people. Another trick is to have your friend buy something while you talk to him and at the same time have a goodie right in your own hand then just walk out of the store still talking with your friend. One last thing- bagging goods with stuff you already bought is stupid unless the store doesn't give receipts but what the f--k is you're good enough! [2] ILLEGAL ENTRY Another of my favorites. What is there really to say about illegal entry except for it is a great way to attract attention to a neighborhood. I mean with all the cops that come around the next day. Also this is a great way to obtain valuable goodies like electronic equipment. One thing never do this in your own neighborhood because you won't be able to use the goodies you obtain. Never break into a house with people in it if you are trying to obtain goodies and also never break into a house with an alarm. Always observe the area you're going to break into before entering and look through the window next to the front door to see if they have an alarm. There are several ways to break in: One is to lock pick your way through but to the novice this may take time and years of learning but one advantage is that it is real silent and undetectable. Another way is to use the BB gun Ice pick method. First bring your BB gun (pistol preferable) and shoot a small hole next to the lock. Then use the Ice pick or some other device to undo the lock on the window. Never leave anything of yours at the scene. Catalog numbers and the like are traced quickly. One final way to enter is to just crash the window with a stick. This is really noisy but fun. If you want to do this the target window should be next to another noisy place like a street or something. Also don't spend to much time in the place after entering and most off wear gloves and a black suit and always enter a night. One more,thing I find it enjoyable to paint some type of remark or sarcastic saying (real big of course) on one of the main walls. Such an example would be a certain symbol like a pentagram or a saying like "fuck off" (simple but suggestive) or to be creative "you have bad taste in panties and curtains" or my favorite "pigs have little dicks." Most of all be creative when signing you're little messages usually I sign them by putting "You're worst dream" and "love, John". You may find it wasteful to write such messages but personally I think terrorism should be funny, sarcastic, and confusing. Two more things: try not to leave any trace of yourself such as articles of your clothing or even your blood (you might cut yourself if you break the window). And if you consider yourself a common thief, DON'T! You are an Anarchist and a Terrorist! [3] ASSORTED FUN Here are other simple things you might like to do: A) Enter a place with people in it and sneak up them and then totally surprise the fuck out of them while they're sleeping. You might do this by screaming and hollering at the foot of their bed or by setting their bedroom curtain on fire and then scream and holler at the foot of their bed. Scream "Get out the house! There's a fucking fire!" Just be sure these people don't have gunes and you have a quick exit route. One way to be sure of this is case their house ahead of time. If you find a gun near the bed, unload it or fuck up the firing pin so it can't be fired. That way you have the drop on them. In any event, this one is dangerous. If the husband is away on business, you might decide to pretend to be the husband and molest the wife while she's sleeping. Think of the possibilities. Pretending to be the husband is my favorite because....well I'm horny. I start off by gently massaging the women's breast and then taking my other hand and venturing into beaver land ! Another thing I find enjoyable is if the the women is alone in the house I do the above but when she wakes up I simply knock her out with the stick I used to break in with. If you plan to do this be sure that as soon as she opens her eyes you give her a swift blow to the head. Don't wait for her to scream for God's sake! Better yet, if you have some, put a LIGHT dose of cloroform on a rag and make her breath it. As soon as she passes out, take it away as it can kill her. Another means of subduing a woman is fear. Pint a gun or knife at her head while stuffing a rag in her mouth and make her submit. A good method is to handcuff them before they wake up so they can't fight you too easily. After you have her subdued, fuck her to your heart's content. One more thing if you're really horny I suggest you tie her up and then wait for her to wake. Put a ball gag in her mouth, or improvise with a rubber ball and some duct tape. Tie her with her legs spread for maximum access. If you're into anal sex, tie her face down. Just be sure she doesn't get a good look at your face. Wear a stocking or pantyhose on your head or a ski mask. Oh, and be sure to practice safe sex. Heh heh... Note: I do not consider this rape! It is not! It is terrorist tension relief. Also it was done under pleasant circumstances. B) Letting the air out of people's car tires has always been fun but I prefer to blow the tires up with impact explosives better. Also I recommend blowing up the whole car. This is not only fun but it makes great reading light. May I also suggest you do the above before you read the rest of the manual. That way after you blow the car up you can sit next to a great reading light and read some more of this manual while the car burns. And finally one more thing- I love to watch the people scurrying trying to put the car out. I mean if they had any brains they would not it is impossible especially if you put a buck of Napalm in their front seat. Also I suggest you paint the ground surrounding the car with impact explosives. That way when the car blows up (or just starts on fire) as soon as the people run to the car and watch it burn they'll step on the dried explosives and blow themselves up. Note: This is really cruel but what the hell! You're a terrorist! C) Lastly, suggest you...well fuck I'll let you create your own little goodies for you to do. I've given you a start now go out and experiment! Note: I have lots more but I don't want to give away all my secrets. Section Three: Destruction (and death as a result) Many of you I suspect don't want to become murderers so I suggest you don't read any further. It takes a great hatred to kill a human being and I highly recommend you don't do it. Not only is it really evil but you will have severe guilt trips and may even commit suicide as a result. Personally I don't care anymore and could give a fuck about everything, but occasionally I do regret all the things I've done. Please don't read the rest of the artical unless for entertainment purposes otherwise welcome to the world of Hell. (ha ha ha!) ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ A S S A S S I N A T I O N T E C H N I Q U E S Preface ------- If you do indeed take the information provided in this article seriously enough to do it, please forget where you read it. Poisons: -------- The first and probably least known way to maim(such a nice word) someone is through the use of various herbal extracts..(no I don't mean Sinsemella) Diffenbachia (dumbcane) =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Take 2-4 of the leaves and boil them in water (don't inhale the fumes) When the water becomes a greenish color, take the leaves and throw them away..Now take the liquid and add it to the victims drink,food etc..The victims voice goes kaput. Oleander. =-=-=-=-= Take a twig of this bush and grind it into a fine powder..Place the powder in the salt shaker,or sub-stitute it for any other type of seasoning...Causes death within 3-4 hours...sometimes quicker Poison Oak/Ivy. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Take the leaves and do the above process..Or boil the leaves and when the water turns brownish/green pour it out into a vial...Add a few drops to the victims beverage.. It tends to destroy the victims vocal cords... Systemic roses. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Take a rose bush and soak the ground around it with a very poisonous fertilizer..In the days following the roses leaves,stems,etc will become highly deadly..When the victim gets scratched by it..He/she dies.. Poisons Part 2 -------------- The second and more common poisons are that of deadly metals and earthy extracts. Sodium Arsenide. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- This along with Lead Arsenide rank in the top ten of lethal materials Sodium Arsenide can be acquired at a glass staining shop..It is placed into the victims food,etc. Potassium Cyanide. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- This is chemical is contained in appleseeds..To get it you must grind up about 12 oz of apple seeds ..The effect is close to radiation poisoning...It kills within 6 hours Curare. =-=-=-= This substance is basically a ba28rd poison..It is various poisons combined into a lethal dosage..It kills within 45 minutes. Lead. =-=-= Although this material is very common it is also very deadly..Take about 30-40 grams of lead shavings(dust) and put them in someone's food.. It does wonders.... Mercury. =-=-=-=- Mercury is a highly deadly material that kills skin on contact...To use most effectively,place about 20 grams wherever the victim might place his hand or any other part of his body for that matter..Or place it in his food supply...It to does wonders... Others (Unknown!) =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Although it is impossible to list all of the deadly substances here I will show how to make contact poison... (credit to Ima Hacker) take 3 no-fly pest strips (tm) place them in a jar of turpentine overnight..In the morning scoop out the white/brown gel at the bottom. it kills in 60 seconds..Count 'em (again credit must go to Ima Hacker) Highway Accidents??? -------------------- The following section describes various was to seriously harm the occupant by destroying the victims car... Explosions =-=-=-=-=- Take a film canister filled with liquid drano and drop it into the gas tank...Do this just before your target enters his car...When he's driving down the freeway or any other part of the HTS his car will suddenly become engulfed in flame. Carbon Monoxide (CO) =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Drill a small hole into the exhaust system of the victims car..From it run a length of tubing into the passenger compartment..After 20 minutes he will fall onto the floor and most probably die when he hits something. Stuck Accelerator =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Find the victim's throttle cable and cut it..now follow the piece coming out of the manifold..Now supposing you found where it intersects the valve...There should be a small spring there that keeps the valve closed...Cut it...push the valve open....clean up...When Mr. Victim starts his car the engine will race. when he shifts he should fly out of control down the roadway..until ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ EFFECTIVE NECK-BREAKING TECHNIQUES *Crossneck* This method will only work if you are much taller (1 1/2 - 2 feet) than your target, or the target is sitting down (guards, teachers, etc.) Approach the target from the behind SLOWLY as not to startle, then place your left arm around the neck, and the right arm across the neck (over the left) and grab your upper-left arm with your right arm. Move the right arm upward sharply, and the left arm left firmly around the neck. Pop the neck out of the spinal cord, and separate the head from the rest of the body. The neck should be quite twistable now. Damage the spinal cord, so the victim has little/no hope for survival. Don't even think about whipping out a knife. This method is for killing without leaving a single mark. *Throat demolition* When using this technique, be sure to rid your conscience of any regrets while attempting this. You will be staring your victim eye- to-eye, and you don't want to cower out. Your victim will have a scared-shitless look of "Why me?" They will look so innocent, it might make you chicken out. Check out "The Cypher's guide to the elimination of the conscience" if you have these problems. It could mean the difference between life and death... Creep up to your mark while they are leaning over (reading, loading gun, etc.) Stare down at what they're doing by their RIGHT side, then place the left arm around the neck from the underside. In other words, extend the right arm under their chin, then reach back around to the back of the head. Grab the neck tightly, place your shoulder on their chest, flip them over onto the table or floor, then punch them AS HARD AS YOU CAN right in the throat. I'm not sadistic (yeah, sure, you say,) and I am somewhat of an animal lover, but a good way to practice this technique is with pigs. Go down to any forestry project, and then find out where some of the pigs are... This will not be too hand to do. Just look for severe underbrush. Wait, and they will come. Ambush from behind, and the pigs neck is yours. Im not sure if this kind of hunting is legal (bare hands) but it is essential for proper exercises in the art of the elimination of the conscience. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ EXPLOSIONS: Effective demolition. We will be using this brand of Pipe Bomb in most all of our elimination exploits: One 1 foot length of pipe (threaded) two caps for the ends of the pipe. one baby-food jar about a baby-food jar full worth of vinegar baking soda some gravel To construct the pipe bomb: 1. Cap one end of the pipe with a metal cap TIGHTLY! 2. Fill the baby-food jar with vinegar, cover, AND WIPE CLEAN! 3. Drop the baby-food jar into the pipe lightly as not to break, and add some gravel. 4. Pour baking soda to the rim into the pipe bomb. 5. Cap the other end very tightly. Synopsis: Once you crack the pipe hard enough to break the baby food jar, it will cause the baking soda to create such pressure, that it will explode. The explosion is more than effective. Rumor has it that when it was thrown into an old car, it blew the doors about ten feet away, and the roof three feet into the air. When this device was constructed by myself, I just stuck it under an old tree, and it was removed. You have about five minutes to wait, so you might still have time to acquire a quick alibi. USING THE PIPE/PRESSURE BOMB Someone you hate? Well, creep out of your house REAL LATE at night (3-4:00) and walk up to their house. Crack it to start on the driveway, and throw under the car. Run home, then read the police reports. Once you have been better acquainted with device, it can be used to help you out. Throw it under the stage of a play, or leave it in the bathroom of your school, etc. MOLOTOV COCKTAILS IMPROVED Well, the original Molotov cocktail was used differently.. Its not REALLY improved, but its better this way. Molotov created this weapon in the Russian revolution (give them a taste of their own medicine) and the formula was 50% gasoline, alcohol, and 50% oil. With the oil, it sticks to what it hits. Much more effective... MODIFYING MOST SEMI-AUTOMATICS Whats this B.S. about spending $3000 for a full-auto kit? All we did was file down the firing pin, and it worked almost perfectly. File down the part by the springs that rubs against the tracks, so it is free. This works best with a good-old M-16, or most HK rifles. SURVIVALIST PYROTECHNICS It is almost imperative for the modern-day snow camper to carry around a bit of gasoline (I know, only the shitbaits do that, but the wind gets pretty rough out there) with you. Once that much has been done, you are ready for the Survivalist's bomb: in other files, the GENERIC BOMB. This bomb is infamous among bulletin boards, but because it suits this method better, I call it the survivalist's bomb. 1 jar, pipe, etc. few drops of gasoline. a few drops of potassium permanganate found in most all snakebite kits I. Put in a few drops of gas into the jar, pipe, etc... and coat the surface inside. II. Once the gas has evaporated, put in a few drops of Pot. Permangate, and close the jar shut. Throw the jar at your target, or the truck under you, or into the crowd at the mardi-gras and be far away. This bomb will pack 1/2 stick of standard GCM dynamite. Handy, indeed. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ Miscellaneous Nasties By: Lex Luthor FIREBOMBS Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline. NAPALM About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, like jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings. Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two- quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler. MATCH HEAD BOMB Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse A plastic Baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent detonation by contact with the metal. Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from the TV. FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury. It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the contents. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ P Y R O M A N I A C T E C H N I Q U E S IMPACT GRENADES 1] MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSE-HOLD AMMONIA 2] WAIT OVERNIGHT 3] POUR OFF THE LIQUID 4] LET THE 'MUD' ON THE BOTTOM DRY... (IT'S LIKE CONCRETE) 5] THROW IT AT SOMETHING!!! SMOKE BOMBS 1] MIX : 3 PARTS SUGAR TO 6 PARTS EPSON SALTS 2] PUT IT IN A TINCAN (COFFEE CAN WILL DO) 3] HEAT IT OVER LOW FLAME (LIKE A CIGARETTE LIGHTER) 4] LET GEL AND HARDEN 5] PUT A MATCH IN AS A FUSE. 6] LIGHT IT AND RUN LIKE HELL........(4 POUNDS OF THE STUFF WILL FILL A CITY BLOCK WITH THICK WHITE SMOKE MEDIUM-GRADE EXPLOSIVES 1] MIX : 7 PARTS POTASSIUM CHLORATE 1 PART VASELINE 2] TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE. CAR BOMB 1] PUT LIQUID DRANO INTO A PRESCRIPTION BOTTLE (THE SMALL BROWN PILL BOTTLES) 2] CLOSE THE LID AND POP IT INTO THE GAS TANK (OR A BOTTLE OF GASOLINE IF YOU WANT TO MAKE A SIMPLE TIME-BOMB) 3] WAIT 5 MINUTES..... 4] RUN LIKE HELL PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES 1] MIX : 2 PARTS VASELINE 1 PART GASOLINE 2] IGNITE IT WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ L O C K P I C K I N G SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK ELSEWHERE. THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE "LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET HIM TO MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU TO USE. IF YOU FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T GIVE UP HOPE. IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A GRINDER (YOU CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.) THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE SHOULD BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.) IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS: #1 \\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\s\\\\\\\ (THIS IS THE HANDLE \\\ THAT WAS ALREADY \\\ HERE.) \\\ \\\ \\\ NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END (#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST YOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY. NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ? LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT. IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE INTERIOR OF A LOCK: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K # # # # # # | E # # # # | Y * * | sH * * * * * * | O | L | E XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| #= UPPER TUMLER PIN *= LOWER TUMLER PIN X= CYLINDER WALL (THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING) THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPAcE BETWEEN THE UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW, IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDENCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ? THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH..... THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE DOOR WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL PROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT YOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE. THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE. IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER WAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ How to Make a Land mine by Merlin and Black knight First you need to get a push button switch... take the wires of it and connect one to a 9 volt battery connector and the other to a solar igniter (if you can't get that then use a thin piece of stereo wire). Connect the other wire of the 9 volt connector to to the other end of the solar igniter (stereo wire). Now... connect the end of a fuse (of a pipe bomb, M80, whatever has a fuse) to the solar igniter... Dig a hole... not to deep but enough to cover all the materials. Think about what direction your enemy will coming from and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not to visible). Plant the explosive about 3 feet from the switch because there will be a delay in the explosion. And when your enemy steps on it... B O O M ! ! ! ------------------- ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ H I G H W A Y R A D A R J A M M I N G Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will arm themselves with an expensive radar detector. However this device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the radar signal is not present until the cop has you car in his sights and pull the trigger. Then it is too late to slow down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random numbers when your car approached him. It is surprisingly easy to make a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called a Gunn diode will generate microwaves when supplied with 5 to 10 vdc and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonator). An 8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a car's system. However the correct construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz. or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. Most microwave intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in supermarkets, etc.) contain a Gunn type transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 milliwatts at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you can't get one locally write to Microwave Associates in Burlington, Mass. and ask for info on "Gunnplexers" for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on the dash or in a weatherproof enclosure behind the plastic grille. Switch on the power when on the open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the side of behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will notice is that drivers in front of you who are using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs or bridges. Your signal is bouncing off these objects and triggering their detectors. Have fun... Cryton ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ FIREWORKS OK, SO YOU WANT TO KNOW HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN FIREWORKS? NOTE: ALL THE AMOUNTS GIVEN IN THESE DIRECTIONS ARE IN PARTS BY WEIGHT. DO NOT USE PARTS BY VOLUME (LIKE TEASPOONS OR SOMETHING), OR ELSE YOU COULD HAVE A SERIOUS PROBLEM. ALWAYS MIX THESE CHEMICALS BY SHAKING THEM ON A SHEET OF PAPER OR SOMETHING. IF YOU GRIND THEM, STIR THEM, ETC. THEY COULD EXPLODE IN YOUR FACE!(AFTER ALL, I DON'T WANT YOU TO KILL YOURSELF WHILE DOING THIS!) FUSE: 1. DISSOLVE AS MUCH POTASSIUM NITRATE AS YOU CAN IN ABOUT A PINT OF WATER AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. 2. SOAK 5-6 INCH PIECES OF STRING OR PAPER IN THIS SOLUTION AND LET THEM DRY. 3. LIGHT THE FIREWORKS WITH THE STRING OR A PIECE OF PAPER ROLLED INTO A TIGHT TUBE. FLASH POWDER: 1. MIX: 1 PARTS POWDERED MAGNESIUM METAL and 4 PARTS POWDERED POTASSIUM NITRATE. 2. IGNITE WITH A VERY LONG FUSE. THIS STUFF EXPLODES WITH A HUGE WHITE FLASH, AND MAY BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO SCREW UP YOUR EYES IF YOU LOOK STRAIGHT AT IT. "SNAKES": 1. MIX: 5 PARTS POTASSIUM NITRATE 10 PARTS POTASSIUM DICHROMATE 5 PARTS REGULAR SUGAR 2. MIX THESE POWDERS WITH ENOUGH MUCILAGE OF ACACIA (THAT GOOEY BROWN GLUE YOU CAN GET AT A DRUGSTORE) SO THAT YOU CAN MOLD THEM INTO CONES ABOUT 1/2 AN INCH HIGH. 3. WHEN DRY, LIGHT THE TIPS OF THE CONES WITH A MATCH. FOUNTAIN #1: 1. MIX: 1 PART POWDERED MAGNESIUM METAL 1 PART POWDERED IRON METAL 1 PART POWDERED ZINC METAL 1 PART ANTIMONY SULFIDE 1 PART POWDERED CHARCOAL 1 PART POWDERED SULFUR 1 PART LYCOPODIUM POWDER 1 PART POWDERED SUGAR 1 PART POTASSIUM NITRATE 2. COAT A CARDBOARD TUBE AND PLUG THE BOTTOM WITH PLASTER OF PARIS (THIS IS SO IT WON'T BURN). 3. FILL THE TUBE WITH THE MIXTURE, INSERT A FUSE, AND LIGHT IT. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ NASTY TRAPS Traps are the vital part of any assassin's strategy. So if you are going to be a dealer of death you must learn the art of trap building.. All traps don't have to kill, the following traps are made to wound the victim and make the kill easier... Trap #1-Foot trap ----------------- You will need the following items: 1) 8-10 bungi sticks about 7 inches long each. [Note]: Bungi sticks are just sticks that have one end sharpened to a point. I you want to get fancy 1-1/2 inch dowel works great! 2) A shovel 3) A victim First off pick a spot where the victim will walk that is soft ground or dirt. Then proceed to dig a hole about 2-3 feet deep and about 2 feet in diameter. Once the hole is dug take the bungi sticks and line the hole with them so that they are pointing downward at an angle like this: hole wall--> !\ <--bungi stick--> /! <--hole wall !\ /! !---------------------! Cover the hole to match the ground cover (use twigs and leaves with dirt or whatever matches on top) and find a nice hiding spot. When the victim steps into the hole the stakes will do nothing to him but maybe snag his pants, but when he tries to remove his foot he will be going against the stake and they will drive into his ankle... [P.S.]-For a nice touch you could also put the stakes on the hole floor... Trap #2-Light Bulb Trap ----------------------- To make this trap work you must have access inside the victim's house and it helps if you don't like them very much. To start get a bottle of ammonia, and put some in a sealable container that it won't eat through. Next, acquire a medical syringe. Go to the house of the victim and get into a room by yourself. Go to the nearest lamp or light fixture that has a light bulb in it and remove the light bulb. Make sure the lamp or socket is turned OFF. Fill the syringe with the ammonia and make a small puncture in the light bulb. It may sound impossible but it's actually pretty easy. Once you have the ammonia touching the filament in the light bulb stop injecting and replace the bulb. Leave the room and try and stay out of there until the light is turned on. When it is turned on the red hot filament and the ammonia do all sorts of fun stuff!!.... ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ BLASTING GELIGNITE To try and tell you about the potency and danger of this stuff, I want you to know that one time some friends of mine and I (Disk Slasher, Romper Stomper) were very careful and made some of this stuff. After it was made, we were scared as shit of it and carried it on a ten foot pole. (literally!) Near to my house there is a club that has a Coke machine outside. So we went over there at about 3 in the morning and stuck this stuff all over the Coke Machine and set it off. The whole Coke Machine damn near split in two (well anyway the front door was blown off) and the Cokes and money came spilling out We helped ourselves to both and got the hell out of there which was good because the police and fire department were there in about 15 minutes because all the people around that the blast had waken up had called them because they thought there was a fire or something. So if you make this stuff (Which we don't endorse you doing) BE CAREFUL! The Recipe: Note: None of these items are too hard to get but you damn well better not think that this stuff is not powerful because of that. if you think that, you had better get prepared to lose part of your body. Further Note: A step marked with a star '*' should be done behind a blast shield of some kind. We used a big sheet of plexiglas. Stuff you need 1) 50 parts water 2) 20 parts sugar (provides oxygen) 3) 1 part baking soda 4) 5 parts Corn Flakes (I'm not kidding, this is VITAL as a stabilizing agent) 5) 30 parts Charcoal (Very finely ground Fish tank charcoal- No Barbecue charcoal) 6) 10 parts Sulphur (You can sometimes get this at grocery stores [especially Kroger] in the drug section) 7) 30 parts Saltpetre (You can also get this at grocery stores sometimes. Kroger is the only one I know of but there might be others. get it in the drug section.) 8) A Jar of Vaseline The Actions... 1) Get a deep metal pan to cook over the stove on and put the water in it. Stir in the sugar until it all dissolves. if you can't get all of the sugar to dissolve, add more water until all of the sugar has dissolved. Now stir in the baking soda until it dissolves. if you can't get all of the baking soda to dissolve, don't worry about it, just leave it. 2) Heat the pan over a medium flame (You don't need to stir) until it begins to boil. Now stir in the corn flakes until they are all in water and the whole thing begins to look like hot breakfast cereal. let the mixture sit on the burner until it begins to boil again. (This could be a long time or it could be a very short time depending on the water and the elevation, etc.) 3) As soon as the mixture begins to boil, stir it constantly until it is a sludgy mass that is sort of half solid and half liquid. 4) Now dump this mixture out onto a greased cookie pan (so it doesn't stick) It should be just solid enough to almost stay in a lump. Now mix in the Charcoal and the Sulphur. If it gets really gritty, don't worry. Just mix it together as well as you can. Now stick in the oven at 150 degrees. Make sure that is 150 degrees. if it is much higher, this stuff will burn up in your oven and take your whole house with it. Constantly monitor the pan until all of the sludge is baked dry and has no wetness in it at all. * 5) Get the pan out of the oven when it is ready and put it in the refrigerator or let it cool down by itself (The refrigerator is faster). Now take it out of the pan and pound it into dust. This might need to be done behind a blast shield because even though I have heard that it can't blow up or burn up if it is cool at this stage, When I pounded up my batch I made some sparks and so I got a blast shield just in case. * 6) When you have the dust. put it in a tupperware or something like that and put it, the saltpetre, and the vaseline in the fridge until they are all cold. This definitely needs to be done behind a blast shield as this is the part where it gets very unstable. Get a cooler and fill it with ice and put an open container in the ice but don't let ice get in the container. Mix all of the dust and saltpetre together. Get a big glob of vaseline and get it nice and soft and quickly mix as much of the dust into it as you can. If the mixture get above about 35 degrees Celcius, it will blow up so try to not keep it in your hands too long (I definitely advise wearing gloves to keep your hands from heating the mixture.) When you have mixed all of the dust possible into the lump of vaseline, drop it into the container in the cooler and get some more vaseline and make a new lump. When all of the dust is gone, close the container and put it in the fridge. When you want it to blow up (And it will blow up big!) just get it hot. We did both by sticking firecrackers in it and lighting them and running like hell (Very Dangerous!) and by model rocket ignition system model rocket igniters which we stuck in the stuff. If you are crazy and stupid enough to do this, then watch out! it is a good way to hurt yourself. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ Car Fun BY: System Crusher Ok you real sick bastards so your so called friend screwed you right so do we get mad??? Of course not JUST EVEN!! Now say he just got a car or has a good one as it is gee let's see what fun we can have with it: FLAME THROWER ============= Take a cup of gas and poor it down the exhaust pipe when the dude starts it **POOF** he has a 30 foot flame thrower Now that doesn't do anything that's just to make the guy shit in his pants. PRETTY DESIGNS ============== Ok now take his windshield wiper and attach some tacks to it Gee what pretty designs they leave on the car window when he turns then on. lets see: POTATO TRICK ============ Just take your average potato and stuff it in someone's exhaust pipe.The car wont start if there somewhere else they will have to get it towed.If there stupid they will have to ask a mechanic Ok they will probably have to go to a mechanic and ask to get it out boy wont they ever look stupid! and cost them $$$$$ or a pain in the ass to do it themselves.. Nitro triodide ============== I saw a message on this its the ammonia and iodine mixture well you take the shit and smear it on the tire treads and when he pulls out **BOOM**. -=>System Crusher<=- ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ CHEMICAL IGNITERS FROM THE BOOK: THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON CHEMICAL DELAY IGNITERS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN POPULAR WITH THE MORE VERSATILE MILITANTS. THE MOST COMMON SUCH IGNITER IS THE SULFURIC ACID-POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND SUGAR GOODY. THE IGNITER IS A MIXTURE OF HALF POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND HALF GRANULATED SUGAR. IT BURSTS INTO FLAME WITH THE APPLICATION OF A DROP OF SULFURIC ACID. THE IDEA IS TO PUT SOME OF THE MIXTURE INTO A GLASS OR PLASTIC TUBE AND THEN STUFF IN SOME COTTON, OR PAPER. SOME ACID IS THEN PUT INTO THE TUBE WITH A MEDICINE DROPPER, BOUGHT AT A DRUG OR HOBBY STORE. THE ACID IS SUPPOSED TO SEEP SLOWLY THROUGH THE BARRIER AND FINALLY IGNITE THE MIXTURE. THE BAD THING ABOUT THIS SYSTEM IS THAT IT OFTEN DOESN'T WORK OR IT WORKS TOO FAST. WHEN SULFURIC ACID EATS THROUGH VEGETABLE MATTER THERE IS A REACTION OF GREAT HEAT. THIS IS OFTEN ENOUGH TO BREAK THE GLASS TUBINGOR MELT A PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW AND CAN STOP THE ACTION RIGHT THERE. IF THE GLASS TUBING HOLDS, THE ACID STILL LOSES ITS POTENCY AS IT REACTS WITH THE VEGETABLE MATTER AND THAT WHICH REACHES THE MIXTURE MAY BE TOO WEAK. THE WORST THING THAT CAN HAPPEN, HOWEVER, IS THAT IT WILL WORK TOO FAST. THE ACID CAN EAT THROUGH THE BARRIER IN SECONDS INSTEAD OF THE MINUTES YOU THINK YOU HAVE. THIS COULD BE DISASTROUS IF YOU LOITERED IN THE AREA FOR A MINUTE TO AVOID LOOKING SUSPICIOUS. IF YOU ARMED THE DEVICE BEFORE GOING INTO THE TARGET AREA, YOU MIGHT NOT EVEN GET THERE. TO AVOID SUCH HANGUPS YOU SHOULD USE A NON-REACTIVE BARRIER SUCH AS ASBESTOS FIBERS, BOUGHT FROM ANY BUILDING SUPPLY STORE. THE ACID WILL SEEP THROUGH THE ASBESTOS FIBERS, MAKING HEAT AND WITH-OUT LOSING ITS POTENCY. AND SINCE IT DOESN'T EAT THE ASBESTOS, IT CAN BE TIMED WITH MUCH MORE CERTAINTY, WHICH MAKES IT SAFER AND MORE SURE. POWDERED HIGHWAY6 FLARE IGNITER CAN BE SUBSTITUTED FOR THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE-SUGAR MIXTURE. IT IS OVER HALF POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND IS SIMPLER. IN FACT, IF THE PLASTIC STRAW IS PUSHED OVER A FUSE COATED WITH FLARE IGNITER, THE FUSE NEEDS NO OTHER IGNITE R. ANOTHER CHEMICAL IGNITION DEVICE USES GLYCERINE TO REACT WITH POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS A RELATIVELY STABLE OXYGENATOR AND CAN EASILY BE BOUGHT AT THE DRUG STORE. IT IS ALSO USED FOR STAINING MICROSCOPE SPECIMENS, DISINFECTING FISH TANKS. THE POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS GROUND TO A POWDER AND MIXED WITH THE SAME AMOUNT OF FUSE POWDER AND MIXED WITH THE SAME AMOUNT OF FUSE POWDER OR THE HIGHWAY FLARE IGNITER. COTTON CAN BE USED AS A BARRIER AS IT DOESN'T REACT WITH GLYCERINE. AT LEAST AN INCH OF GLYCERINE IS PUT INTO THE TUBE, ESPECIALLY IF YOU USE A BARRIER. WHEN IT REACHES THE MIXTURE IT TAKES FROM THREE TO FIVE MINUTES FOR THE IGNITION TO TAKE PLACE. IF THE IGNITER IS POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND SUGAR OR FLARE IGNITER OR POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE, IT NEEDS A BARRIER TO KEEP IT IN PLACE. TO MAKE SURE THE FIRE TRAIN BURNS PAST THE BARRIER TO THE FUSE, THE BARRIER SHOULD BE FLAMMABLE. TO MAKE MATERIAL FOR THIS BARRIER, MIX COTTON WITH WET FUSE POWDER OR FLARE IGNITER. THEN DRY IT AND PULL OFF PINCHES AS NEEDED. TO ARM THESE DEVICES A MEDICINE DROPPER FILLED WITH ACID OR GLYCERINE CAN BE CARRIED UP-ENDED IN A TEST TUBE IN THE SHIRT POCKET. A PLASTIC FELT-TIP MARKER WITH A CLIP TO HOLD IT UPRIGHT IN THE POCKET CAN BE USED INSTEAD OF THE TEST TUBE. IT IS SIMPLY HOLLOWED OUT AND THE DROPPER FITS IN NICELY. TO AVOID BURNED FINGERS, A STRING IS TIED TO THE DROPPER SO IT CAN BE PULLED OUT OF THE CONTAINER. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ The Chemist's Corner Article #1: Explosives By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG This article deals with the instructions for creating some dangerous explosives. If you intend to make any of these explosives, do so in SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, as they are all dangerous and could seriously injure or kill you if done in larger amounts. If you don't know anything about chemistry, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS! I am not joking in giving this warning. Unless you have a death wish, you shouldn't try any of the following unless you have had prior experience with chemicals. I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this information. It is provided for use by people knowledge in chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. I. Common "weak" explosives. A. Gunpowder: 75% Potassium Nitrate 15% Charcoal 10% Sulfur The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (separately!) with a mortar and pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: the potassium nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released. B. Ammonal: Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the % composition for Ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using small amounts. C. Chemically ignited explosives: 1. A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well. 2. Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very well for imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name 'MPG Volcanite' (tm). Here it is: potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate + ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring agent. (scarlet= strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals, yellow= sodium chloride, crimson= calcium chloride, etc...). 3. So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it. Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It also may ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams Ammonium choride: 1 gram Zinc dust: 8 grams Iodine crystals: 1 gram 4. Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple- colored flame in 30 secs-1 min. Works best if the potassium permanganate is finely ground. 5. Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas (highly flammable gas used in blow torches...) II. Thermite reaction. The Thermite reaction is used in welding, because it generates molten iron and temperatures of 3500 C (6000F+). It uses one of the previous reactions that I talked about to START it! Starter=potassium chlorate + sugar Main pt.= iron (III) oxide + aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer) Put the potassium chlorate + sugar around and on top of the main pt. To start the reaction, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top of the starter mixture. STEP BACK! The ratios are: 3 parts iron (III) oxide to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar. When you first do it, try 3g:1g:1g:1g! Also, there is an alternative starter for the Thermite reaction. The alternative is potassium permanganate + glycerine. Amounts: 55g iron (III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate, 6ml glycerine. III. Nitrogen-containing high explosives. A. Mercury(II) Fulminate To produce Mercury(II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive, one might assume that it could be formed by adding Fulminic acid to mercury. This is somewhat difficult since Fulminic acid is very unstable and cannot be purchased. I did some research and figured out a way to make it without fulminic acid. You add 2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts alcohol to 1 part mercury. This is theoretical (I have not yet tried it) so please, if you try this, do it in very small amounts and tell me the results. B. Nitrogen Triiodide Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive. Never store it and be careful when you're around it- sound, air movements, and other tiny things could set it off. Materials- 2-3g Iodine 15ml concentrated ammonia 8 sheets filter paper 50ml beaker feather mounted on a two meter pole ear plugs tape spatula stirring rod Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5 minutes. DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES! Retain the solid, decant the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the brown solid...). Scape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stack of four sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a separate sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for AT LEAST 30 minutes (preferably longer). To detonate, touch with feather. (WEAR EAR PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!) C. Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that- it does not give off smoke when it burns. Materials- 70ml concentrated sulfuric acid 30ml concentrated nitric acid 5g absorbent cotton 250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate 250ml beaker ice bath tongs paper towels Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight. IV. Other stuff A. Peroxyacetone Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and has been reported to be shock sensitive. Materials- 4ml Acetone 4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid 150mm test tube Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a meter away). B. Smoke smoke smoke... The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke. 6g zinc powder 1g sulfur powder Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be created. There are many other experiments I could have included, but I will save them for the next Chemist's Corner article. Upcoming articles will include Glow-in-the-dark reactions, 'party' reactions, things you can do with household chemicals, and more... I would like to give credit to a book by Shakashari entitled "Chemical Demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some experiments. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ HOME MADE CHEMICAL EXPERIMENTS This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting experiment with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments. I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this information. It is provided for use by people knowledge in chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. I. A list of household chemicals and their composition Vinegar: 3-5% acetic acid Baking soda: sodium bicarbonate Drain cleaners: sodium hydroxide Sani-flush: 75% sodium bisulfate Ammonia water: ammonium hydroxide Citrus fruit: citric acid Table salt: sodium chloride Sugar: sucrose Milk of Magnesia- magnesium hydroxide Tincture of iodine- 47% alcohol, 4% iodine Rubbing alcohol- 70 or 99% (depends on brand) isopropyl alcohol (DO NOT DRINK!) etc... [1] Generating chlorine gas Dangerous! You should know what you're doing before you try this... Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'DO NOT mix with chlorine bleach, and vice-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with Ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and put Ajax in the bottom. Then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. Since the chlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either Ajax or ammonia (DON'T!). For something fun to do with chlorine stay tuned.... [2] Chlorine + turpentine Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start burning... [3] Generating hydrogen gas To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter than air... Light a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*. Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. This involves separating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6- 12 volt battery, two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them, with the mouth of the tube a iming down. Connect the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes. This s will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide....). Therefore, if you can get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. It will not affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity. [4] Hydrogen + chlorine Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react... [5] Preparation of oxygen Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off. Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. Experiment with it. The oxygen will allow things to burn better... [6] Alcohol Buy some rubbing alcohol in a drug store. Usually this is either 70% or 99% alcohol and burns just great. You can soak a towel in water and then in alcohol, light the towel, and when it finishes burning the alcohol, the flame should g o out and leave the towel unharmed. Nice for "party tricks", etc. [7] Iodine Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To separate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form Nitrogen Triiodide (discussed in article #1). ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ CONTACT EXPLOSIVES PETROLEUM JELLY AND POTASSIUM CHLORATE IN A 1 TO 1 RATIO BY WEIGHT MAKES A TOTALLY SAFE WHEN WET COMPOUND BUT IS HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE AND SHOCK SENSITIVE WHEN DRY. 3 GRAMS OF POTASSIUM IODIDE 5 GRAMS OF IODINE IN A BEAKER WITH 50ML OF WATER MIXED ALL TOGETHER. ADD 20ML OF AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE (AMMONIA WATER 10%) FILTER AND THE RESULTING SOLID IS CALLED NITROGEN TRIIODIDE. WHEN WET IS VERY SAFE BUT UPON DRYING BECOMES VERY EXPLOSIVE AND SHOCK SENSITIVE, TO THE POINT OF A FEATHER SETTING IT OFF. TO SET OFF THE ABOVE EXPLOSIVES ALL YOU REALLY NEED TO DO IS PUT SOME OF THE MIXTURE ON OR IN SOMETHING AND THEN DROP IT SORT OF LIKE AN IMPACT BOMB. IT EXPLODES ON IMPACT WITH ANOTHER OBJECTS [-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-] HERE IS A MIXTURE FOR GREAT SMOKE BOMBS 4 PARTS OF SUGAR TO 6 PARTS POTASSIUM NITRATE (SALT PETER). HEAT OVER LOW FLAME UNTIL IT MELTS, STIR WELL. POUR IT INTO FUTURE CONTAINER. BEFORE IT SOLIDIFIES, IMBED A FEW MATCHES AS FUSES INTO THE MIXTURE. ONE LB. FILLS A BLOCK NICELY WITH THICK WHITE SMOKE. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ ELECTRONIC TERRORISM It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a (direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile inwardly---your revenge is already planned. Step 1: Follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more, letting your anger boil. Step 2: In the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit (details below.) Step 3: Plant your kit at the designated target site on a Monday morning between the hours of 4:00 AM and 6:00 AM. Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility of another attack. DO NOT WRITE IT BY HAND! An example of an effective note: "Don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your hand. Have a nice day." Notice how the calm tone instills fear, as if written by a homicidal psycho. Step 5: Choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions. Step 6: Sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective Terrorist Kit #1: The parts you'll need are: 1) 4 AA Batteries 2) 1 9-Volt Battery 3) 1 SPDT Mini Relay (Radio Shack) 4) 1 Rocket Engine(Smoke Bomb or M-80) 5) 1 Solar Ignitor (any hobby store) 6) 1 9-Volt Battery connector Step 1: Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the close position thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a look at the schematic below.) Step 2: Take the 4 AA batteries and wire them in succession. Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another, until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even though the four AA batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar ignitor quickly and effectively. Step 3: Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open position on the relay. Step 4: Using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or M-80). Your kit is now complete! ---------><--------- I (CONTACTS) I I I I --- (9 VOLT) I - (BATTERY) I --- I I I (COIL) I ------///////------- /----------- / I / I / I (SWITCH) I I I I I --- (BATTERY) I - ( PACK ) I --- I I I I ---- ----- I I * (SOLAR IGNITOR) So-o-o-o You would like to delve into the art of harassing,pestering,annoying and possibly harming another enemy!!! Ok-here you'll learn some of the useful methods I've used! For the squeamish! ITEM 1- To torment a person, always start off easy and slowly increase the severity of your attack until your goal is accomplished! This will give you an example of r attack letting them know that you're not done with them yet! ITEM 2- To start your revenge, mail anonymous letters and call at all hours! ITEM 3- Call the papers-place ads in their name (1964 Chevy Impala-$600)will get every mexican gang member in L.A. to call and visit their address if you put it in the ad. Advertise something illegal in their name, then call the cops and show them! Call long distance under their phone # and order candy and flowers from Western Union under their number. Order magazine subscriptions, books records, everything you! ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ HOW TO MAKE A FLASHLIGHT BOMB A FLASHLIGHT BOMB IS FAIRLY EASY IT MAKE AND CAN BE CONCEALED SO WELL, THEY IT IS VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO DETECT IT. HERE'S WHAT TO DO: GET YOURSELF ONE FLASHLIGHT OF ANY SIZE, SHAPE, OR CREED, AND THE BATTERY/BATTERIES THAT GO ALONG WITH IT. NOW IT IS TIME FOR AN IMPORTANT DECISION. DEPENDING UPON THE TYPE OF BOMB YOU REQUIRE, YOU HAVE TO MAKE A CHOICE IN MATERIALS. HERE ARE YOUR CHOICES: [1] MERCURIC CHLORIDE - GAS BOMB [2] PURE SODIUM+WATER - FLAME BOMB [3] SULFURIC NITRATE - ACID BOMB [4] GUNPOWDER (TNT) - BOOOOOOOOM! NOW, TAKING THE MATERIAL FOR THE TYPE OF BOMB YOU WOULD LIKE TO MAKE, PROCEED TO PUT ROCKS, BB'S, GLASS PELLETS, ETC... IN THE BOTTOM OF A HOLLOWED OUT BATTERY/BATTERIES, UNLESS YOU ARE MAKING A FLAME BOMB, WHICH IN THAT CASE READ ON. THEN LINE A MAGNESIUM STRIP ALONG THE SIDE OF THE FLASHLIGHT APPEARING ON TOP OF THE FLASHLIGHT SO YOU MAY LIGHT IT. NEXT, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF THE EXPLOSIVE YOU CHOSE IN THE BATTERY. [ NOT YOU MAY LIGHTLY PACK IT IN, BUT DO NOT HIT IT!!! MY FRIEND WAS PACKING A HOME-MADE BOMB ONE DAY, AND HAMMERED THE COVER ON, AND BLEW A HOLE RIGHT THROUGH HIS LIQUOR CABINET ] NEXT, SECURE THE TOP, LEAVING ROOM TO INSERT THE MAGNESIUM STRIP. IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS: ----------- \ / \ / \_____/ ! BMB ! ! BMB ! ! BMB ! ! BBB ! ! ! !_____! IN THE LAST DIAGRAM, (B) STANDS FOR BATTERY AND (M) FOR MAGNESIUM. ALSO INSIDE THE BATTERY SHOULD BE THE AMMO AND THE EXPLOSIVE. NOW FOR THE FLAME BOMB...THE SODIUM, SHOULD BE ON THE TOP, AND THE WATER IN A BABY FOOD JAR. THE SODIUM USED HERE IS NOT TABLE SALT!!! YOU WON'T NEED THE MAG. STRIP BECAUSE NUMBER 1, BECAUSE ALL YOU NEED DO IS HIT THE FLASHLIGHT AGAINST SOMETHING HARD. DO NOT HOLD IT--- THROW IT AS FAR AS YOU CAN!!! ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ EXPLOSIVE PENS Here are the instructions for building a device no agent should be without. From the mind of "Q" himself, a device for your evaluation. Materials...... [1]-(1) "Felt" Tip Pen [2]-(1) "Ball" Point Pen [3]-(1) High quality firecracker! [4]-(1) 8 gram measure potassium parmagranite (optional) [5]-(x) Scotch Tape [6]-(1) Large Paper Clip [7]-(2) Packages of matches [8]-(1) Pair of scissors [9]-(1) Length of Beige thread Assembly...... [1]- Use thread to friction saw the felt tip pen in half at the point where the cap "snaps" onto the pen. (about mid-section) [2]- Remove the inert of the felt tip pen, and throw them away. [3]- Pull the inert out of a bic ball point pen and remove the ball point assembly at the front of the pen. [4]- Use scissors to widen the hole in the "felt" end of the pen. Insert the ball assembly and make sure it is a tight fit. It should now look as if the felt tip pen was constructed as a ball point pen. [5]- Cut off abrasive strips from the packs of matches. It is best if they have not been used. Tape these to the top of the firecracker near the fuse, the strips should run parallel to the outstretched fuse. Wrap fuse over the top of one strip and tape down so fuse runs parallel to abrasive strips. [6]- Unbend paper clip and tape a match to the metal rod, the match should be parallel to the rod and it should be taped tight using as little tape as possible. [7]- Insert the match head 1/5 of the way between the abrasive strips and wrap tape around the assembly. It should now look like this. ------______----- [][][]a[][][]-----------------(b) (())--------------------- ______------_____ |(c) |(d) (a)-Explosive/(b)-Fuse/(c)-Match attached to metal rod/(d)-Abrasives The entire assembly should be thin enough to slip into the case of the felt tip pen. [8]- Using scissors drill a small hole in the "non-tip" end of the felt tip pen case. Insert the assembly so the metal rod fits through the hole in the end of the pen case. [9]- The assembly will not quite fit properly. The firecracker will protrude from the cut half of the felt tip case. Slip the removed end of the case over the firecracker. (join the halves together over the firecracker in the center) and mount the cap of the felt tip pen on the end of the metal rod. Glue any loose parts. You are done! To Detonate... Simply hit the cap (mounted at end of pen permanently) and throw it at your target, or hand it to your target. My favorite is to say "Think Fast" and throw them your felt tip pen. (make it a easy throw) Your victim will catch it, and it will then explode. Cutting off many small appendages if you coat the firecracker with potassium parmagranite. Or killing your target if you use contact poison in place of the potassium. Theory of operation... Quite simple, by hitting the cap you are ramming the match head at the end of the metal rod between the tight abrasive strips causing combustion. Or the "Orgasm" effect. (the term Axis Agents use!) The fire lights the fuse and from there, the pen is history! (pardon the pun). After hitting the cap you have a average time limit of 2.5 seconds to rid yourself of the pen. (plenty of time actually...) Edited by : Quasimoto So, you want to learn about some explosives, eh sonny? Well, you have come to the right place. Starting with this file, a series begins that will try to bring that world of demolitions and fun ( ha ha ) a little closer to you. This series, ingeniously dubbed the "Explosive Files" will go through the many types of explosives around. In addition, a few sidetracks will be made on the way in the areas of fireworks or whatever seems appropriate. As you delve through what is contained in the files, you may find some helpful information, you may not. But have fun reading them anyway. If you haven't figured this one out yet, this file is formatted for 80 columns. And the rest of the files are the same way. So, using a quote I saw once on a file on a board, " Use your damn printers people !!! " And now on with the show. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ EXPLOSIVES To start learning about explosives, you have got to start at the beginning. I plan to be as thorough as possible, but I may forget things every now and then. The files should still be complete though. So now to start at the beginning...... An explosive is a substance that, under the influence of heat, shock, or some other agency, undergoes a chemical reaction that causes it to decompose or break up quickly with more or less violence ( whew ). Explosives fly to pieces because the materials composing them react in such a way that solids or liquids are suddenly converted into gases, which tend to expand and rapidly fill a larger volume of space. Heat is also developed and acts as a catalyst ( something that changes the speed of the reaction in some way. In this case it speeds it up. ). The noise associated with an explosion is caused by air waves. An explosion is an intensified combustion also. The history of explosives is too long for one file, but certain events are covered in individual files. For instance, gunpowder's history is in the gunpowder file. Lets narrow the scope a little here and get a little introduction into explosives. How they are classified is a good thing to know, so here it is. There are basically 3 different types of explosives existing. All explosives fall into one of these categories somewhere. What follows is a listing of each of these categories with a brief description and some examples. I. Propellants Propellants, or low explosives, are combustible materials, containing within themselves all oxygen needed for their combustion. They burn themselves out but do not explode, and function by producing gas which explodes. Examples are Black powder and smokeless powder. II. Primary Explosives Primary Explosives, or initiators as they are sometimes called , explode or detonate when they are heated or subjected to shock. They do not burn and sometimes they do not even contain the elements necessary for combustion. The materials themselves explode, and the explosion results whether they are confined or not. Their brillance, or the shock which they produce when they explode, differs considerably in different explosives, as does their sensitivity to heat and the amount of heat they give off. Examples : Mercury Fulminate, Lead Azide, Fulminating Gold, the mixture of Red Phosphorus with Potassium Chlorate, Copper Acetylide, Nitrogen Sulfide, and Tetracene. III. High Explosives High Explosives detonate under the influence of the shock of the explosion of a suitable primary explosive. They do not function by burning. Most of them can be ignited by a flame though and in a small amount generally burn tranquilly and can be extinguished easily. If heated to a high temperature by external heat or by their own combustion, they will sometimes explode. They are generally more brilliant and powerful than primary explosives. They exert a mechanical effect on whatever is near them when they explode, whether they are confined or not. Examples : Dynamite, Trinitrotoluene, Tetryl, Picric Acid, Nitrocellulose, Nitroglycerin, Liqiud Oxygen mixed with wood pulp, fuming Nitric Acid mixed with Nitrobenzene, Ammonium Nitrate , Ammonium Perchlorate, and Nitroguanidine. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ IGNITERS A small but major part of any explosive is how to ignite it. Some materials, like gunpowder, will ignite quickly when in contact with flame. But some explosives will not light by just a flame and hence they require some thing with some more power, maybe even another explosive. What follows is a list of your basic igniters. BLACK MATCH Black match is made with fine, soft cotton twine and meal powder. It is easily made by twisting 3 or 4 strands of the twine together and covering the resulting cord with a paste made by mixing the meal powder with water. The excess paste should be wiped off and the cord should be allowed to dry while stretched across a frame. A slower match can be made by twisting the twine and using a homemade black powder as the paste. This powder is made by mixing 6 parts Potassium nitrate, 1 part sulfur, and 1 part soft wood charcoal. This match and slight derivations are used on nearly ever firework available. Its cheap, reliable if made right, and easy. QUICK MATCH Quick match is black match inserted into a paper tube which does not need to fit tightly. When light, the black match burns through the tube at a extremely quick rate. MINERS FUSE Miners Fuse is also called Safety Fuse or Bickford Fuse. It consists of a central thread surrounded by a core of black powder enclosed within a tube of woven threads, which is then surrounded by waterproof materials, etc. It commonly burns at the rate of 1 foot a minute. When the fire reaches the end, a jet of flame about 1 inch long shoots out for the purpose of igniting black powder or lighting a blasting cap. DETONATING FUSE Detonating Fuse, or Cordeau, is a narrow tube filled with high explosive. When the explosion is initiated at one end by a detonator, the explosion travels along the tube with a high velocity which causes other high explosives in its path to explode. In America, cordeau is made from lead tubes filled with TNT, from aluminum or tin tubes filled with Picric Acid, and from tubes of woven fabric filled with Nitrocellulose or PETN (yes, that's Pentaerythrite Tetranitrate). BLASTING CAPS Instead of making a whole separate file out of blasting caps, my first intention, I will just put the stuff here. Blasting caps were invented in 1867 by Alfred Nobel, who also first made Nitroglycerin, invented dynamite and blasting gelatin, and provided funding to start the Nobel prizes. What a cool dude. There exist 3 different kinds of blasting caps, varying from a simple fuse wrapped by explosive to a complicated waterproof cap involving an electrical detonation. . There is also 8 grades, or strengths of caps, denoted by numbers ( No. 1, No. 6, etc. ). Usually the strength is marked on the cap. SIDE NOTE : Electrically ignited caps are the most common type available. If you live anywhere near a quarry, try to get a tour of the place. Watch wherever you walk. blasting caps abound in areas like this. When nobody's looking, pocket a few. What follows is a generally useless chart, but here it is anyway. It shows a little about the strengths of each cap type ( see another file about mercury fulminate ). Weight of Mercury External Fulminate Dimensions ::::::::::::: :::::::::::::: grams diameter,mm length,mm ::::: ::::::::::: ::::::::: No. 1 .30 5.5 16 No. 2 .40 5.5 22 No. 3 .54 5.5 26 No. 4 .65 6 28 No. 5 .80 6 30-32 No. 6 1.00 6 35 No. 7 1.50 6 40-45 No. 8 2.00 6-7 50-55 ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ PRIMARY HIGH EXPLOSIVE * Flash Point * Here we are with a list of primary high explosives. It's not much, but there are not many of them. There are many more secondary high and low explosives ( see the next two files ). Mercury Fulminate ::::::::::::::::: Mercury Fulminate is an initiating explosive, commonly appearing as white or gray crystals. It is extremely sensitive to initiation by heat, friction, spark or flame, and impact. It will detonate when initiated by any of the ways. When stored continuously at temperatures above 100 degrees F it gradually becomes inert. A dark- colored product of deterioration gives evidence of this condition. Mercury Fulminate is commonly stored underwater except in places where freezing is possible. Then it is stored under a mixture of water and alcohol. Lead Styphnate :::: ::::::::: Lead Styphnate is an initiating explosive, usually appearing in orange or white crystals. It is easily ignited by heat and static discharge, but cannot be used to start secondary high explosive reliably. Lead Styphnate is an ingredient in priming mixtures for small arms ammunition. Lead Styphnate is stored underwater except where freezing is possible. Then it stored under water and alcohol. Lead Azide :::: ::::: Lead Azide is an initiating explosive produced as a white to buff crystalline substance. It is more reliable than Mercury Fulminate and it does not decompose during long storage at moderately elevated temperatures ( 90 and above ). It should not be loaded into copper or brass containers because Copper Azide, an extremely sensitive explosive, can be formed in the presence of moisture. DDNP Diazodinitrophenol :::::::::::::::::: DDNP is a primary high explosive. It is used extensively in commercial blasting caps that are initiated by black powder safety fuse. It is superior to Mercury Fulminate in stability but is not as stable as Lead Azide. DDNP is desensitized by immersion in water. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ SECONDARY HIGH EXPLOSIVES This section is a rather complete listing of secondary high explosives. They are listed in no particular order and they all have a bit of information about them again, just like the primary high explosives. I think that this is probably the best file in the whole group so have fun. TNT TRINITROLOLUENE ::::::::::::::: TNT is produced from Toluene, Sulfuric acid, and Nitric acid. It is powerful high explosive. It is well suited for steel cutting, concrete breaching, general demolition, and underwater demolition. It is a stable explosive and relatively insensitive to shock. It may be detonated by a blasting cap or primacord. TNT is toxic and its dust should not be inhaled or allowed contact with the skin. NITROSTARCH ::::::::::: Nitrostarch is composed of Starch Nitrate, Barium Nitrate, and Sodium Nitrate. It is more sensitive to flame, friction, and shock than TNT but not as powerful. It is initiated by detonating cord. TETRYL :::::: Tetryl is a fine, yellow crystalline material and exhibits a very high shattering power. It is commonly used as a booster in explosive trains. It is stable in storage. It is used in detonators. RDX CYCLONITE ::::::::: RDX is a white crystalline solid that exhibits very high shattering power. It is commonly used as a booster in explosive trains or as a main bursting charge. It is stable in storage. NITROGLYCERIN ::::::::::::: Nitroglycerin is manufactured by treating Glycerin with a nitrating mixture of Nitric Acid and Sulfuric acid. It is thick, clear to yellow-brownish, and extremely powerful and shock sensitive. Nitroglycerin freezes at 56 degrees fahrenheit in which state it is less sensitive to shock than in liquid form. COMMERCIAL DYNAMITE ::::::::::::::::::: Commercial dynamite comes in three principal types. Straight dynamite, Ammonia dynamite, and Gelatin dynamite. Each type is further divided into a series of grades. All dynamites contain Nitroglycerin in varying amounts and the strength of the explosion is related to the Nitroglycerin content. Dynamite ranges in detonation velocity from 4000 to 23,000 feet per second and is sensitive to shock. Dynamite is initiated by electric or nonelectric blasting caps. PETN PENTAERYTHRITE TETRANITRATE ::::::::::::::::::::::::::: PETN is one of the most powerful of military explosives and is almost equal in force to nitroglycerine and RDX. When used in detonating cord, it has a detonation velocity of 21,000 f.p.s. and is relatively insensitive to friction and shock from handling and transportation. MILITARY DYNAMITE ::::::::::::::::: Military ( construction ) dynamite, unlike other commercial dynamite, does not absorb or retain moisture, contains no nitroglycerine, and is much safer to store, handle, and transport. It detonates at a velocity of about 20,000 feet per second and is good for military construction, quarrying, or demolition. It may be detonated with an electric or nonelectric military blasting cap or detonating cord. AMATOL :::::: Amatol is a high explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixture of Ammonium nitrate and TNT, with a relative effectiveness slightly higher than TNT alone. Amatol is used a main bursting charge in artillery shells and bombs. Amatol absorbs moisture and can form dangerous compounds with copper and brass. BLASTING GELATIN :::::::::::::::: Blasting gelatin is a translucent material of an elastic, jellylike texture and is made in a number of different colors. It is considered to be the most powerful industrial explosive. It is more water resistant than Gelatin dynamite. COMPOSITION C4 :::::::::::::: Composition C4 is a white plastic explosive more powerful than TNT. It consists of 91% RDX and 9% plastic binder. It remains plastic over a wide range of temperatures (-70 F. to 170 F. ), and is as sensitive as TNT. It is eroded less than other plastic explosives when immersed is water for long periods. It is well suited for cutting steel and timber and breaching concrete. COMPOSITION B ::::::::::::: Composition B is a high explosive mixture with a relative effectiveness higher than that of of TNT. It is also more sensitive that TNT. It is composed of 59% RDX, 40% TNT, and 1% wax. Because of its shattering power and high rate of detonation, Composition B is used as the main charge in certain bangalore torpedoes and shaped charges. AMMONIUM NITRATE :::::::::::::::: Ammonium Nitrate is a white crystalline substance that is extremely water absorbent and is therefor usually packed in a sealed metal container. It has a low velocity of detonation ( 3600 f.p.s ) and is used primarily as an additive to other explosives. It is only 55% as powerful as TNT. HMX ::: HMX is a solid high explosive commonly used as a booster and sometimes as a main charge where its shattering effect is needed. It is a white substance with a rather high melting point; hence it is usually pressed into its container. It may be initiated by Lead azide or Mercury fulminate. PENTOLITE ::::::::: Pentolite is a high explosive made from equal mixtures of PETN and TNT. It is light yellow and is used as the main bursting charge in grenades, small shells, and shaped charges. Pentolite should not be drilled to produce cavities; forming tools should be used. PICRIC ACID ::::::::::: Picric Acid is a yellow crystalline, high explosive bursting charge. it is initiated by Lead azide or Mercury fulminate and has the same effectiveness as TNT. When in contact with lead, Picric acid produces Lead Picrate, a sensitive and violent explosive. GUN COTTON :::::::::: Gun cotton is a nitrocellulose explosive made from cotton fibers containing 13% or more of nitrogen. Although primarily considered a propellant, it is sometimes used as a base charge in electric detonators. AMMONAL ::::::: Ammonal is a high explosive mixture composed of 22% Ammonium nitrate, 67% TNT, and 11% flaked or powdered aluminum. It is sometimes used as a filler for artillery shell. The composition is 83% as effective as TNT and explodes with a bright flash upon detonation. IMPROVISED PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Plastic explosive filler can be made from Potassium Chlorate and petroleum jelly. The Potassium chlorate crystals are ground into a very fine powder and then mixed with the petroleum jelly. This explosive can be detonated with a No. 8 commercial blasting cap or with any military blasting cap. The explosive must be stored in a waterproof container until ready to use. TETRYTOL :::::::: Tetrytol is a high explosive bursting charge containing 75% Tetryl and 25% TNT. It is used as a demolitions explosive, a bursting charge for mines, and in artillery shells. It is about as strong as TNT. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ G U N P O W D E R Probably the most common explosive you will ever encounter in your travels is gunpowder. It is nearly everywhere. Most every firework will use gunpowder. It is the easiest to make, and the cheapest of all the explosive. How about a little bit of history here... Gunpowder is the oldest of all the known explosives. It's invention is credited to the Chinese, the Arabs, and the Hindus, but the first one to publish anything definite on it was friar Roger Bacon of Oxford in 1242. He wrote a book telling how to make an explosive mixture containing saltpeter. For this reason Roger Bacon is sometimes considered the inventor of gunpowder. Berthold Schwartz, a monk, also played his part in gunpowders history by helping to develop firearms using gunpowders properties. By 1326 cannons were being used. Certainly gunpowder helped change the course of the world. It has been used in things such as warfare to mechanical assistance. By the way, Saltpeter is Potassium Nitrate ( KNO3 ). Also, doesn't it seem a bit funny that most of the people involved in the history of explosives were religious people? The modern gunpowder is commonly called Black Powder, but is made in about the same way as its ancestors. Saltpeter, charcoal, and sulphur are mechanically mixed into a fix powder. The rate of ignition depends on the grain size ; the smaller the grains, the faster it burns. The exact proportions of each material can vary, and each mixture is a little different. But the most effective powder has been found to be in the ratio of 6 parts Saltpeter, 1 part charcoal, and 1 part sulphur. Here are a few other mixtures though for your enjoyment. DATE SALTPETER CHARCOAL SULFUR -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- 8th century 66 22 12 8th century 70 23 7 Roger Bacon 37 32 31 1560 50 33 17 1781 75 15 10 1635 75 12.5 12.5 Brown powder, also called cocoa powder, was discovered and it was found that it could be used as a replacement for normal black charcoal. Brown powder is slower burning than its brother and was used extensively in guns before smokeless powder was developed. Cocoa powder is more sensitive to friction than ordinary black powder. Samples have ignited when shaking in canvas bags. As before, here are some exciting different formulas. Saltpeter Brown Charcoal Sulphur <*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*> 79 18 3 78 19 3 80 20 0 There are a few more variations of gunpowder existing too, so check out the next file for a listing. A common myth about gunpowder is that it explodes. This is wrong ( I know a few people out there are saying I'm full of shit, right ? Well, it's the truth ). To really understand what happens it is necessary to know a little about chemistry. I'll try to explain it to the average person now. The formula for saltpeter is KNO3 ( Potassium nitrate ). If you don't know yet, the O stands for an oxygen atom, and there are 3 of them. The 3 is supposed to be sub-scripted by the way, so just imagine that it is. This means that in the gunpowder mixture, there is a whole bunch of oxygen atoms. Well, pure oxygen burns. But how does it break out of the KNO3 ? The